Jonah surfing in Pupukea
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While most of us are surfing the net and spending way too much time desk-side, others are riding monster waves mornings and evenings.
One of the greatest things about this trip to Hawaii has been reuniting with my second-cousin Jonah Kogen, who lives in Honolulu and goes tubular daily, seeking gnarly curls from Oahu to Kauai, Big Island, Maui, Bali, Vietnam, Lombok, Sumbawa, Java, and both east and west coasts of the U.S.. Upcoming on the surf itinerary is a trip to Padang on Sumatra and the surrounding islands for a 10-day boat trip.
What made this Philadelphia native move to Polynesia and hit the rails daily?
A different life where he could work hard, surf hard, never wear covered shoes and down jackets, and live the life of making a conscious decision to do the right thing in terms of self, others, and the environment)love, affection, compassion, mercy, sympathy, pity, kindness, sentiment, grace, charity), (or power, but not like having the corner office or the biggest car. In Fundamentals of Hawaiian Mysticism, Charlotte Berney explains that, "Having meaningful work to do, enjoying harmonious relationships with those around you, and being of service in some way all help to gather mana.")
Wave to go, Jonah, for all you seek and are achieving in this Pacific paradise.
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