March 18, 2024

Part II: Crazy Surfing on Truly Massive Waves

I'm completely (and equally) mesmerized by surfers riding big waves. What would it feel like to be in the barrel of one of Oahu's North Shore Backyards, a brutal yet rewarding reef-filled surf where the waves are fast and furious? Or in the epic mecca of Nazaré, Portugal, where waves can reach 80 feet and over and intimidate even professional big-wave surfers. (Check out the video ... scary/exhilarating/hail the dudes that dare the waves of Nazaré.)

I can watch these clips for hours:

Mavericks, CA

Jaws, Maui

Teahupo'o, Tahiti

Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania

Punta de Lobos, Chile

The rabbit hole thing takes over. It can be a household problem.

Husband: "Hon, what did you do today?" 

Me: "I watched surfing clips on YouTube."

Husband:  "The entire day?"

The fixation may have been ignited with "Subway Surfer," a writing project I did for a music video. To kick it off, I rode every subway line in Manhattan from start to finish. 

How to "Subway Surf?" 

Walk to the first car, stand at the window, and don't grab onto anything. Your arms need to help you keep balance as you sway to the subway's twists and turns.

I share my obsession/passion for surfers and surfing with the venerable Diana Vreeland. (Check out "Diana Vreeland: A Wannabe Surfer"). She said,

"I'm really only envious of one thing, and that is a surfer. I think it's the most beautiful thing. See I'm mad about water. I think water is God's tranquilizer. To be in it, to drink it, to look at it, and to be a surfer -- oh, between the sky and the water -- would be to me, the most wonderful thing."
                                                                                         ~ Diana Vreeland

~ ~ ~ To get the full drift, be sure to read "Part I: Crazy Ships on Wild Waves" ~ ~ ~


Pamela Jo said...

LoVE this— every bit.

Bonni Brodnick said...

Das crazy, man.

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